Friday, 18 October 2013

last day

Before (September)

After: Snow-dusted Youtei-San

The sun shone brightly on my last morning in Niseko. Mr and Mrs T sat on the sofas sipping coffee. They invited me to come back in the winter season for the skiing, politely forgetting that I cannot ski. On the table were leaving gifts to me - a Japanese 'house coat' (think a full-body apron) so that I can 'make pies for my boyfriend'. And my very own Hanko. Now I can sign everything using my name in Japanese kanji. Warning: I will be signing many things this way from now on.

Matronly - a cooker of soggy pies

little case

open sesame

my name!
I got them something too... a tourist guide to England. Ahem. With pictures of the Queen and Thatcher. Both of whom Mr and Mrs T seem to like (or at least they like the movies). 

I'm sad to go as I'm not sure I'm ready for the bustling city again. Another six months of never being alone in a cafe; never walking down a road in silence; of drinking bottled water instead of tap; of bumping into people a hundred times a day, even when doing a simple task like crossing the road. 

I took Hana out for a last walk, making sure not to go too close to Sesame, the huge scary dog, who always barks at Hana. The crickets jumped in the grass. And a "stinky bug" landed on my sleeve. Youtei-San is quite clear today, a slash of white runs down its sides like a ribbon. The snow ploughs are being gathered up in Niseko-village and the gardeners tie wooden slats around their fruit trees, ready for the long white winter. 








sayonara party

Upstairs in Mr T's 'Noodle Workshop'
The house was full of smoke. 

Mr T was grilling ostrich sausages on the stove. Little bright pink fingers. Downstairs, I was watching the pie in the damned microwave-oven. My hair sticking up in all directions and my clothes saturated with flour. Mrs T still apologising for pouring my chicken stock down the sink by mistake. ("Oh my God!" I'd said when she did it. And then "It doesn't matter. It doesn't matter. Oh my God! No. It doesn't matter!)

Neighbours each brought a dish. Some people were louder about what they brought the others. The jewellery-designer had brought a bottle of red-wine juice which she had made herself, her hands stained red, and she explained how the grapes grew wild. How she'd peeled their skin and pressed them down with her. Yamagiwa-San brought an enormous bottle of Shochu. Almost everyone's dish included pumpkin in one form or another. 


The failed pie and less failed apple crumble
The pie failed. (Think Bake Off 'soggy bottom' times a hundred). Still, there was plenty of other things to eat and there was plenty of booze going round so no one cared. People gossiped about the village - new cafes and izakayas, the foreign girls in the town hall, golf stories and holidays to Hawaii and Nepal. At the end, I made 'English tea' (yeah, with milk) and everyone dutifully drank it in between their cold Sakes.

Mr T's inside barbecue
There were also Ginko nuts wrapped in foil. Which had a strange green, wet, smoky flavour. When I asked what they were, everyone said 'Ginko! Ginko!' And looked at each other in confusion when they realised I didn't get it. And then the jewellery-designer - who is an international well-travelled woman in her sixties who insists on speaking English with me - patted my arm, whispering earnestly: "It is Ginko." 

Neighbours. Including the 14 year old A-chan in fur
The husbands were all eager to go home at around 10pm (to see to their dogs). The wives were all eager to stay and drink more and chat about learning languages abroad and childhood trips to the dentist. At one point, a women pointed out how much fatter she'd become (she has three young children) - 'It's true you are getting chubby around the face' was one particularly memorable quote from Mrs T. Her neighbour didn't seem to mind though, heartily agreeing.

Yamagiwa San and Mr T - you can spot Jeweller-designer's be-ringed hands moving erratically to the right

gathering
The evening ended in the calm steady domestic chat over the washing up - whose Tupperware was whose etc. Who was going to take which leftovers home. At this point, Mrs T really came alive, insisting that there was no way on earth she would allow another box of pumpkin to be left 'by accident' in her kitchen. 

The cars pulled out of the drive one by one. Nothing could be seen outside in the total night-time blackness apart from the flashing of their lights. Trundling down the lane and out of sight.


夕焼けor 'burning evening' or sunset

a kanji post-script

A post-script to the Nisekonian story is the discovery of the kanji for 'mother-in-law':
The kanji is made up of the symbol for 'woman' and 'old'. So a mother-in-law is 'an old woman'.

Take a look at the kanji for 'father-in-law' however... 
A little different this time. The bottom bit is 'man' and the top is 'mortar'. So 'a strong man'. A man that binds families together. 

Similarly, the kanji for 'son' and 'daughter' carry different meanings. The one for 'daughter' is 娘 or 'good woman' and the kanji for 'son' or 息 also the carries the meaning for 'breath' and is made up of the radicals for 'heart' and 'self'. So the son is your very heart and self - the breath of life? Whereas your daughter is just pretty 'good'.

Still, the Kanji come from China originally, so if you're an offended mother-in-law, don't go blaming Japan! Blame ancient China instead. 


nisekonian

View of Niseko
On the last full day of the homestay, Mrs T and I went to visit her 'Nisekonian' friend. She is a woman in her early seventies who has been born and raised and lived all her life in Niseko. I'm ashamed to admit that when Mrs T explained this to me in the car on the way there, I was a little worried that I would have to face the same barrage of questions ('Does she eat natto?) that Japanese people who rarely meet foreigners usually ask. Or, worse still, I was worried I'd be ignored as an uncomfortable unacknowledged presence in the room.

But my prejudices were proved wrong. Mrs N is a large lady (in Mrs T's words: 'she's got really fat') in her early seventies with dyed brown hair and a round enormous face. She rarely smiled properly or laughed or frowned, and so her face had an impassive, calm quality to it, as if she were viewing everything in a wise, world-weary way. So, when I met her, she was so calm and slow in her movements that I felt as though we had met a hundred times before.

She talked so deliberately and slowly that I understood her Japanese without the usual struggle. For once, I didn't have to be embarrassed about being unable to follow the conversation or stressed when being asked a question I didn't quite get. She told me about her childhood in Niseko - she had to go and draw water from a well, even in winter, as there was no running water - and about her daughter, who refused to leave Niseko for thirty-five years. Refusing to even go as far as Hakodate (a city barely two hours drive away). She asked about the underground system in Tokyo as if it were something exotic and distant ('very speedy, I imagine') and had never heard of the Tokyo electric district, 'Akihabara'. Since I have only met people in Niseko who have retired early from working in Tokyo, and who exclusively talk about Tokyo in the way that southern English people talk about London boroughs, this came as a surprise.

The most interesting thing about Mrs N's life, however, wasn't her Nisekonianism per say. The most interesting thing was her mother-in-law. An old lady who sat knitting in the corner of the living room as we drank our coffee. The kind of Japanese old lady who walks with her head almost touching the ground. Her back curved, her small body wrapped in layer upon layer of puffy winter clothing.

Her mother-in-law had not left the house for as long as Mrs N had known her. They have been living together in the small four-room bungalow for 40 years.

"She gets on my nerves," said Mrs N. "We get on each other's nerves." Then she laughs. And after that she explains to Mrs T how she can't leave her mother-in-law alone, because she can't cook for herself. And even if she tries to leave food warm for her in the rice-cooker or on the gas stove, she worries that her mother-in-law can no longer hear the beeping of the appliances. She doesn't know when the food is ready, or when the gas needs to be switched off. "It's a worry," said Mrs N. "She's not even my real mother."

I asked Mrs T why the Nisekonian's mother-in-law has not left the house in 40 years. Mrs T said, "she hasn't got any friends. She can't go out on her own. She hasn't got a reason to go out, and so she doesn't go out."

We took Mrs N out for a drive to Hirafu. I haven't been on a 'spin' - a drive for the sake of driving - for a long time. It was relaxing, bright and warm in the car, the weather sunny because it was the day after the typhoon. We walked in the sunshine towards Youtei-San - only a few hundred metres or so, on account of Mrs N's knees.

When we returned, her mother-in-law was sitting on the same spot of the sofa, head bent over her knitting.




Wednesday, 16 October 2013

Book Review: Growth of the Soil

The 1935 Cover
The Norwegian Nobel Prize winning writer, Knut Hansum, was once described as "the father of the modern school of writing in every aspect" and his novel, Growth of the Soil (1917), as "the monumental work." According to my research, ahem, Wikipedia, Ernest Hemingway even said of Hansum that "he taught me how to write." There's some background, anyway. 

I started reading the novel on my Dad's recommendation. He said it was "Wahnsinnig" which means "mad" as well as "genius" in German. Wahnsinning, wahnsinning. 

There you are, living in touch with heaven and earth, one with them, one with all these wide, deep-rooted things. No need of a sword in your hands, you go through life bareheaded, barehanded, in the midst of a great kindliness. Look, Nature's there, for you and yours to have and enjoy. Man and Nature don't bombard each other, but agree; they don't compete, race one against the other, but go together. 

Growth of the Soil follows Isaak as he goes out into the Norwegian wilderness and begins to build a house for himself. Like Robinson Crusoe, Isaak constructs his household, step by painstaking step. With each slow movement, carefully drawn out plan, with each acquisition - an axe, a roof, a cow, a shed, a horse, a window, a wife - we see Isaak's world growing in the midst of a snowy wasteland. His wife, Inger, simply turns up one day uninvited from the village, a woman with a facial disfigurement - a cleft lip - who feels excluded from her community. She comes and helps to build the farm, necessitates the need for rooms, and a bed. Even a clock. Later, a sowing machine. Geissler, the town clerk who later becomes a mysterious, solitary roamer, names the farmstead: Sellanraa. 

There is something wholesome and reassuring about the arc of the novel. Like Robinson Crusoe, or a little more recently J.M.Coetzee's Life and Time of Michael K - it's a novel which shows you how you can survive everywhere, anywhere. It shows you how things can progress and improve. How a person can overcome all sorts of obstacles with slow, deliberate, logical steps. You have an axe, and trees, so you can build yourself a house. You have a cow, so you can make milk and cheese. What else do you need? The simplicity of life is reassuringly beautiful. 

The style too has that kind of simple beauty. It moves from dialect and inner monologues to poetic passages on the 'deep-rootedness' of natural things. I particularly liked the word 'kindliness' - I'm not sure what the original Norwegian might be - but, for instance, 'the kindliness of the trees' makes me think of a friendly spirit, of branches bowing towards me in greeting. But there is also a darker side of nature, one that is brought out in worrying, gothic fairy-tale like details:
The big mushroom does not flower, it does not move, but there is something overturning in the look of it; it is a monster, a thing like a lung standing there alive and naked - a lung without a body. 
And, of course, there are disturbing events in the novel. And the solitude of the Norwegian wilderness is broken on several occasions. But I won't go into it here, for fear of spoilers...


Isaak and Inger
One of the more memorable part of the novel for me is the constant travelling they must do "to the village". The long trips. The stamping around through the snow for miles and miles. The sons sent to school far away, "in the village". But as the novel progresses, the village moves ever closer. Isaak finds himself living, not in a wilderness, but in a neighbourhood. It's not just the plants which grow, or the outbuildings, or the stock, or even Isaak's family - it is the community and, by extension, the country. 

The sheer repetition - (the main event of the story is repeated again in Book 2 but with different characters) - of actions, events, phrases, stylistic quirks, reflects the repetitiveness of life itself. After all, isn't that what a community is? Something which constantly repeats itself - birth, marriage, death. So although the novel is long, and although the second 'book' is the first book rewritten, this repetition is a part of what is "Wahnsinnig" about the novel - its genius.

There are many parallels with The Secret Garden. The descriptions of nature as a moral power; of taking care of your 'garden' or farm as a kind of moral imperative. For instance, Isaak's son, Eleseus, is very clever - he can read and write! - but his downfall is that he is too clever. He can't do anything practical. He spends his father's money in trade and bad investment. He uses his head where he should be using his hands. The loner Geissler, too, is a man full of ideas. But he has no farm, because he cannot stay still. He cannot work like Isaak can, cannot build solid foundations for himself. It's all air and promises and words. This was Colin's problem in The Secret Garden - he was too much in his head, and he almost died as a result of imagining his own death.

The impression, too, is the same - I mean the happiness and satisfaction of reading about practical, tangible progress. The number of sheep increase; the number of circles around the garden Colin can walk increases. The corn grows; the roses grow. And reading it I felt a deep reassurance and contentment, knowing that, as long as the roses keep on growing, all would be well.  

Perhaps Hansum yearned for Isaak's way of life. The ideal life - embedded in the 'kindliness' of nature - happy with solid, practical work, far removed from the life of a writer. Building a house of words is like building a house with no foundations. Dependent on readers, on politics and social changes - but Isaak is dependent on no one. He has his land, his livestock, and nothing can take it away. 

The long, long road over the moors and up into the forest - who trod it into being first of all? Man, a human being, the first that came here. There was no path before he came. 

A man comes, walking toward the north. 


Monday, 14 October 2013

Day 3: 摩周湖 or the Magic Hidden Lake

Bella and the Sea of Okhotsk 
 Yamagiwa-San was waiting for us outside the pension, a cigarette in hand. He'd been up since 4.30am as usual to walk the dogs in the dark.

We all drove together in convoy towards the Shiretoko Natural Park, a place so remote the road simply stops after 20km or so from Abashiri. The sea was wild and grey; the clouds low over the mountains. At each stop, we scurried from the car to the souvenir shops, too cold to stand outside and peer at the mountains for very long.

Salmon Chip Ice Cream. Everything was salmon flavoured.
There were signs in the toilet warning you not to feed the bears. Northern foxes darted out onto the road and vanished into the shrubs. A huge stag stood at the edge of the road and watched the cars driving towards him, before elegantly jumping the roadside fence and loping away.

A famous waterfall the name of which I've forgotten.
 It was cold. But the dogs were curious. Bill would tap the window with his tiny sausage-dog paw every five minutes or so and Yamagiwa-San would open the window so he could stick his nose outside. The wind blasted the back of the car where Ellie and I sat; the rain spitting on the edges of the seat. Sorry! Sorry! said Yamagiwa-San, but you'll have to grin and bear it, I'm afraid. For the sake of the dogs. As you can imagine, I spent most of the car journey glaring at Bill every time he raised his little paw to the window, muttering - don't you dare, don't you dare! But he did dare. And Ellie and I, wrapped in coats and scarves, were at the mercy of these tiny dogs. 

cold and windy
On the final sightseeing stop, we were driven up and up on winding mountain roads to a mysterious destination everyone referred to as 'Mashuko'. Apparently, it was not clear whether we would even be able to see Mashuko, as it was more often than note entirely concealed by fog and cloud, even on sunny days.

However, we were lucky.

The Magic Lake
It was a beautiful deep blue lake embedded within a Volcanic crater, perfectly hugged by sheer rock and cliffs. The sides of which were studded with bare trees - a landscape I'd never seen before.  


View from the other side, over towards Shiretoko Peninsula
After seeing Mashuko, I was calm and happy inside. Satisfied with what I'd seen, I suppose - a charmed and content tourist. We were dropped off at our guesthouse and said goodbye to Yamagiwa-San's student and her family - who kindly gave us gifts (we had none to give them, of course. Awkward) and invited us to visit them in Nagoya. 

The first thing I did was get into a (shared) hot bath and warmed my frozen bones. The guesthouse - a rustic hostel in the middle of nowhere - was full of men in their thirties and forties on their own, all hobbyists of one kind or another -  cameramen, horse-riders, bird-watchers, cloud-spotters - who proceeded to show us all the photos they had taken over the weekend over dinner. They were astounded at our use of chopsticks and our ordering of sake (Do you like Japanese sake? Yes, it's why we ordered it. Do you drink sake? Yes, it's what we're doing now. Do you like Japan? Yes. Can you eat Natto? Yes. This is Miso Soup. Do you drink Miso Soup? And so on.) 

But I'll complain about this another time. 

We were woken up at 6am by a hobbyist shamisen player who stood alone at the edge of the field outside, singing and plucking out quick melodies in his pyjamas.  

Day 2: Abashiri or 木漏れ日

The mountains in the background are a married couple - the left is the wife, the right the husband.
The rain lifted and the sun came out, filtering through the Autumn leaves - a scene which the Japanese call 木漏れ日 or Komorebi.

Lake Onneto
Now we could really begin to praise the Kouyou - the sun bringing out the red of the maple tree, the yellows of the white birches. Beautiful! Beautiful! said Yamagiwa San, peppering the car journey with history lessons, explanations of names, town populations and the relative heights of mountains.

Arriving at Abashiri - the famous roadside scene as seen on numerous postcards
At the Notoro Coast line we were assaulted by rough wind and angry waves and a rough grey sky. On the other side of the sea, I could make out the line of the Shiretoko Nature Reserve, the huge rolling mountains. A column of black cloud seemed to lead there in an otherwise white sky. At Cape Notoro, with nothing but ferns bent back with the wind and a lonely lighthouse, I felt like I had come to the end of the world.

But at the same time I felt like I had come back home. Because, as we walked, wind beaten, along the coastal trail, memories of walking along coastal paths in Wales and South England came back to me so strongly I forgot where I was. The dogs were excited, weaving in and out of our legs, barking and stopping to hide in the long grass before jumping out again. The sheer cliffs and roaring white waves brought back half-made-up visions of sitting in the car and looking out at the sea; of styles and kissing gates to be climbed; of taping down raincoat hoods with velcro straps.


Not Really Japan?
Apart from wakening my imagined British nostalgia, driving to the fishing post of Notoro reminded me of how lonely a place this must be for the handful of people stationed here. Especially in winter, where the roads are unpassable because of the heavy snow.


Pointing things out
Of course, no visit to the fishing town of Abashiri is complete without seeing the Abashiri Prison. The first prison in Japan, after they decided not to deal out capital punishment for everyone who went against the law. The old prison is a rather eerie place, set on a long sloping hill, and filled with dolls. Some of them actually move. On entering the prison, the prisoner must walk across a bridge and look down into the water where they 'reflect on their crimes'. The lake now is filled with lily-pads, so you can no longer make out your reflection. 
The scary dolls. Sleeping on wooden benches.

Shamefully taking part in a 'fun reconstruction' of the prisoner's terrible ordeals
In the early 19th Century, the prison was effectively a forced labour camp. The prisoners' built all the major roads in Hokkaido. And the prison grounds themselves were the largest farming operation in the whole of Japan - making and pickling, for instance, over 8,000 Daikon roots every year. It was said that 1 out of 6 prisoner's would die from overwork in their time in the prison. Gradually, however, conditions improved as prison reforms were introduced.

Prison cells in the late 19th Century.
In sharp contrast to the terrible physical suffering of Japanese prisoners of the Meiji period, we spent the evening having a six course Italian meal in the pension we were staying at, in the company of Yamagiwa-San's former student and her family. 

The former student is the lady sitting down at the back, left. Her husband sits opposite, her son on her right, and the two girls are her daughter (left) and niece (right). 
 It turned out that the son and daughter had done various homestays in New Zealand and/or Australia and could speak English - a secret English that would never come to be actually spoken, though. We ate and drank and were merry and no one asked us if we could eat natto or use chopsticks, for which I was truly thankful. The evening was passed with lots of stories about Yamagiwa-San - how he was her 'first love' or 初恋 at school, for instance. I can't imagine ever going for a weekend holiday with my secondary school teacher, but then again I was never lucky enough to be taught by Yamagiwa-San.